Looking for a meaning…a chef’s approach to cooking
A dish by Michelin-star chef Julien Allano (Photo: © A Maigre)
Michelin-star chef Julien Allano is a chef who truly tries to give sense and cohesion to his cuisine. Looking for a meaning, the dishes served in Le Clair de la Plume obey one single rule: The one stated by nature itself.
What Mother Earth gives us
The chef’s commitment to local is radical: Everything served in his restaurant should come, when possible, from a producer located less than 70km away. Products should be local and seasonal. All the protein comes from local producers.
“Our pigeons come from Le Pigeon de Monsieur Durand located at Roche-St-Secret, less than 17km away. The guinea fowls are from Quentin Edmont, 12km from here. The pigs are from the Ventoux,” explains Julien Allano. And all the vegetables also come from local producers such as Sylvain Erhard.
No beef or veal will be found in Allano’s menu. Because it’s not produced in the region. No fish will be served if it is not seasonal. In other words, no consumption that could jeopardise the very fragile balance of the ecosystem.
“When you look for something you find it.” And usually it is right there, a few miles away. Unexpected encounters can come from this search. Like finding producers of vinegar at La vinaigrerie de l’Apparat in Nyons. Or getting almonds from Monsieur Losier à Château-neuf-sur-Rhône just a few kilometres away.
Respecting the season
The season dictates when and how much is given to us. Therefore, the menu cannot be a fixed thing and must be adaptable. Same for the customer. When a chef like Allano only works with local products, seasons are found in the plates. And customers understand it.
There is a sense of freedom in this way of cooking. Allano says: “There was, for me, a liberating impulse to be able to offer only what the producers were able to provide me, it gave us a new momentum to have something to tell that makes sense.”
A no-waste strategy
How to achieve the best results with limited, or at least given, resources? By using every single piece of it.
The perfect example is the lamb. Allano explains he gets five lambs. Not just racks, but the entire animal. If his menu was only about racks of lamb, he would need to feed the same amount of people he is going to feed around 60 lambs. Completely unreasonable!
In other words, Allano’s philosophy is “less waste, more creativity, more in line with our values… kind of what Revol is doing with their new collection No.W”.
Our job, for Revol and for our eco ambassadors like Allano, is to explain our actions and why we took the time to achieve this. He highlights the importance of clarity in the message and in the flavours. So that gourmets can embrace his authentic, fun and contemporary approach to cuisine!